Paliam Kovilakom: The legacy of Paliath Achans

 

The Cochin rule in Kerala was considered to be one which had many good & difficult times. The Kingdom of Cochin prospered due to the efforts of the Paliath Achans who were Prime Ministers to the Rajah of Cochin from the early 17th century till around the start of the 19th century. The Paliam family were Nair Chieftains who enjoyed great patronage & were bestowed the responsibility to advise the Rajah along their hereditary lineage. So all Rajahs from the 17th century were ably supported by the head of the Paliam family who was given the title of Paliath Achan. The family was also only second to the Rajah in terms of wealth & power in Cochin which they enjoyed for over 2 centuries.

The majestic Paliam Kovilakam within the Paliam Complex which is considered to be one of the most beautiful structures in Cochin area stands tall with a beautiful story relating the Paliath Achans to their devotion to the Rajah. The building was earlier called the Paliam Tharavadu which housed the men of the family, women were not allowed to enter. The eldest members of the family lived in the tharavad. The name of the building was changed to Kovilakam when the Cochin Raja stayed here for a brief period when his throne was threatened by the Portuguese invaders. During the 16th century, the Portuguese had started to take control of the Cochin area by threatening the Jews & locals taking a large piece of the trade away from the Cochin rulers.The Portuguese gained so much that they threatened to take over the Cochin Rajah. The Cochin ruler at the time was unable to tackle the threats & took refuge with the Paliath Achan of the Paliam family. The head of the Paliam family is said to have hid the Rajah for a short while at the Tharavadu & then escorted him safely to Chendamangalam. The Rajah who stayed incognito at the Tharavadu is said to have ruled from here which gave the building distinction of a palace & so it became known as Kovilakam. The other important building in the complex is the Paliam Nalukettu which was the house of the matriarch of the family and is one of the most beautiful houses in Kerala. The Paliam family was large & the earliest Palliath Achan constructed the Paliam Nalukettu which became the residence for the family. The Nalukettu structure is typical of the Kerala style of architecture with a wide verandah in the center surrounded by pillared corridors. It is a self contained two storeyed building with around 8 bedrooms & a large Kitchen. The poomukham or entrance is also built in traditional style with wooden pillars along its length. The Naalukettu also had a concealed room known as Ara which was used to store the heirlooms & it is said to have a secret exit to move the items in case of any untoward incidents. The house has a unique feature called Karnasutram which ass per the scriptures of Vasthu is a way to bring natural air within the building along the corners. A narrow peephole is made into the structure which followd a linear straight line precisely bringing air to the corner room. The complex also has temples which are dedicated to Lord Vishnu & Siva along with the temple for the ancestral goddess of the Cochin Kingdom. 

The Paliam family is said to have moved to Chendamangalam from Vanneri around 450 years back & their influence among the local community along with their great intellect made the Cochin Rajah accept their counsel in matters of government. In years they achieved more control & they administered under the rule of the Rajah. The common people considered Paliath Achan the main messenger to the Rajah in matters of daily complaints. The Cochin kingdom over the centuries had to protect itself from the advance of both internal & external adversaries. The Zamorins in the Malabar region & Travancore kingdom in the south kept attacking Cochin over the centuries to attain control of the trade. The arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century made the situation worse & it became difficult to keep off their advances. The Dutch who were present at the time in Kerala were seen as more courteous & Palliath Achan at the time was able to convince the Dutch to help the Cochin against the Portuguese. The efforts of the two helped in pushing the Portuguese away from Cochin & gave Dutch a better stronghold on trade. The Dutch recognised the efforts of the Paliam Family & in return decided to reconstruct the Tharavad. The Paliyam Kovilakom thus today is a combination of Kerala & Dutch architecture. The building was constructed in an efficient way which is a beautiful example of exemplary design with minimum ornamentation but with large quarters giving it a cooler interior with passage of wind. The rooms in the Kovilakom were large to accommodate the huge family so the kitchen & dining area were large which could be used for discussion and chats. The building also has elaborate carved wooden staircases & balustrades with thick walls. The front of the Kovilakom has a beautiful gallery called the Prasanga Peedam which was used by the Prime Minister to address the people. The Kovilakom in 1786  was renovated to extend the building to accommodate women & children who were allowed by the then Paliath Achan to live within. The Paliam family valued inclusive living & promoted community living which made them more prosperous. 

The history of Kerala is incomplete without the contributions of the Paliam family. The Paliam family continued to serve the Rajas till the time of Sakthan Thampuran. The earlier Cochin Rajas were unassuming and simple feudal lords who valued simple life & were quite happy to rule from their palace in Tripunithura. The reign of Shakthan Thampuram changed the outlook of the regime by changing the capital to Thrissur which diluted the power of the Paliam family & they by the end of the 18th century were isolated to be just wealthy landlords. Though the importance of Paliath Achans & the family faded in later centuries, they are credited for the overall prosperity of the Cochin Kingdom. The Paliath Achans also over generations were responsible in building cordial relations with the Dutch, British & the Travancore rulers. The Kovilakom today is a place for visitors to marvel at the beautiful architecture of the Dutch & see firsthand the artefacts housed inside the palace. The Kovilakom today is part of the Muziris Heritage circuit.