Ponnani Valia Juma Masjid: Story of Zainuddin Makhdum

 

In the social fabric of Kerala, Ponnani has been a place which has always resonated with pride. There have been many important personalities & institutions which still stand strong for people of the current generation to know. One such place which for over 5 centuries has been a beacon of light is the Valia Juma Masjid. Its not just a place where one can come to pray but also a place where they can learn & know more about Allah & Islam. 

Ponnani from centuries was a hub of trade with the Arabs & it is believed that the name came from their affiliation to pay gold (ponu – nanayam) coins for the products. When Malik Dinar came to Kerala to spread the word of Islam, it was the people of Ponnani & villages around that were first attracted to the way of Prophet & had a sizeable population settled here. The place around Ponnani had many mosques & the reverence to the Prophet was so much here that the place became known as little Mecca which is quite a title. Though there are many mosques around Ponnani which are much older than the Valiya Juma Masjid, the importance of the mosque stems from the person who built the mosque.

The mosque one sees today is an example of exemplary architecture & was built in 1519. The person who commissioned the mosque was Sheikh Ali Ahmed Al Ma’baari who was fondly called Zainuddin Makhdoom. It is to note that Zainuddin Makhdoom was a great learner & is said to have studied theology in Mecca. Makhdum Thangal as he was called after he finished his learning went to the most important Islamic university of Al Ahsar in Egypt where he is said to have further studied for 5 years. He had travelled to these foreign lands at the start of the 16th century when the Portuguese had just come to the shores of Malabar but by the time he returned to Ponnani, the adversities of the Portuguese were at its peak. The Zamorin’s Nair army & Marakkars were constantly in battle with the Portuguese army to take control of provinces. The youth in Malabar, most importantly the mappilas were planning a Jihad to free their land against the Portuguese. Zainuddin Thangal understood the fierce anger among youth & adolescent boys, he decided to create a feeling of jihad not by taking arms but acquiring knowledge empowering them. This thought was welcomed by all who built the Ponnani Valiya Palli. 

The need of the mosque was more for learning & so a large mosque had to be built. The availability of timber was less due to the control of the trade with the Portuguese & so an efficient carpenter was essential to complete the structure. The Zamorin delivered a large teak tree for the construction & employed his most trusted carpenter (Ashari) for the construction. The wood work one sees today at the mosque is said to have been done using the timber from this single teak tree. This feat was quite unique at the time but what was more intriguing is that the carpenter once the mosque was finished climbed up the top to gaze westward. He closed his eyes for some time & when he walked down is said to have embraced Islam to which Zainuddin Makhdum approved. The carpenter from the day came to be known as Ashari Thangal. This story is intriguing as it is believed that as the structure was being constructed, Zainuddin conducted his learning sessions which was heard by the carpenter & he finally is said to have seen Mecca from the roof of his completed structure. Ashari Thangal continued to stay close to the Valiya Palli, became an important person in Ponnani & his tomb is found in the mosque today next to Zainuddin himself.

Zainuddin Makhdum after the completion of the mosque continued his teaching in the palli & young students from all over came to Ponnani to learn from the most celebrated teacher. It was important for Zainuddin to award excellence & so he started a tradition of Vilakkiruthal (sitting around a lamp) wherein students who had learnt all would sit around a brass oil lamp next to Makhdum himself to gain the degree of Musaliyar. It is to be known that a lamp inside a mosque was not common in those days but Zainuddin employed the same tradition which he saw at Al Ahsar. The tradition of vilakkiruthal is still followed in the mosque today. Those individuals who were given the title of Musaliyar from the Valiya Palli are said to be the best in Islamic Theology. The life of Zainuddin Makhdum was of giving back to the society by way of learning wherein he made the youth understand the importance of faith in Allah & knowledge. The Portuguese attacks of Malabar grew manifolds & Makhdum is said to have been the leader in creating a harmony among the Nairs & Mappilas to fight the invaders. He also wrote a beautiful poem Tahrid Jihad during these times which made the mappilas understand the reason why they should align with the Zamorin to defend their land. 

It is also important to know that Zainuddin Makhdum not only had some influential students, his own grandson was tutored by him at the Valiya palli. The grandson later became known as Zainuddin Makhdum II as he carried the same zeal of knowledge to north of Malabar. Makhdum II taught the value of Holy war against the Portuguese & defend the values of Islam. He was a great writer & is credited to have written much important literature. He essayed the very detailed writing called Tufrat Al Mujahideen wherein the brutality of the Portuguese troops is listed asking the youth to arise & defend their people, his grandfather’s famous poem Tahrid Jihad being the foundation. The Fathul Mueen is a valuable text even followed by Islamic preachers all around the word which lists out the importance of Jurisprudence to be followed in Islam. Makhdum II spent most of his years in Chombal of North Malabar & his tomb is today inside the Kunjhipalli Mosque near Mahe.

The Ponnani Valiya Palli in many ways became the light for the mappilas of Malabar & the Makhdums were the religious leaders for over a century till the Mamburam Thangals came in the 17th century & later other sects of Islam became important. The Valia Palli became a place for many meetings & discussions by the local rulers to find ways to fight the British in the later centuries. The Valia palli also became a venue for many later intellectuals to write their celebrated works. 

The Valiya palli today stands proudly with its decorated wooden gables beautifully renovated in time to continue the heritage. The nercha at the mosque is an important event here but what it still continues is imparting knowledge for the young which in many ways is in line with what Zainuddin Makhdum set out to achieve. For all visitors it's an important part of heritage not to be missed, not just the architecture but the values.