Valiyapally & Cheriyapally of Kottayam: A well preserved heritage

In the city of Kottayam one can find many important heritage sites belonging to different faiths. One such important heritage are two churches which in many ways describe the lineage of Christians in central Kerala. The Valiyapally & Cheriyapalli have stood guard to changing times and are today one among the most important heritage structures of Kottayam. The existence of these two churches are also based on the affluence of two of the most important congregations of Kerala Christians.

The land of Kottayam from the 13th century became a fertile plain for many around as it offered them green pastures for trade. Though the Kottayam Kings ruled the land there were also many princely states around the different plains. One such ruler was the Thekkumkur kings who had their capital at Thirunakkara who endorsed the influx of Christians from other provinces as they were considered honest, truthful & had a good eye for trade. The Christians who were present in these parts of Kottayam belonged to the Knanaya Syrian sect & by the start of the 16th century a need to build a large church became quite vocal. The King also approved this request & provided the Syrians land on a hillock to build the church. It was in the year 1550 AD that the St Mary’s Knanaya church was constructed. The Knanaya Christians are said to be the descendants of Kana Thoma who migrated to Kodungallur from Jerusalem in the 4th century. It is to be noted that the construction of the church was undertaken by the Portuguese who did not subscribe to the ways of the Syrians. Though the beliefs were different the architects went forward & constructed a beautiful structure combining both European & Kerala style architecture. The church is simple but elegantly designed with high roofs & thick plastered walls accommodating the large doors & windows. The church dedicated to the holy mother also had viewing galleries. Apart from the heritage structure, the church also is a place where one can find two stone slabs with ancient crosses called Persian crosses on them. It is believed that these crosses were brought here from another church in Kodungallur. The inscriptions on both slabs are in the Pahlavi dialect which was present in old Persia. The smaller slab is placed on the northern altar while the larger cross can be seen on the southern altar. The church also has some rare carvings & murals on the altar & ceilings. 

The St Mary’s Knanaya church continued to function as an important place for all Christians around Kottayam. In the decades to come the demographics changed & the population was influenced by the Malankara church which resulted in ethnic differences between the people here. The ethnic differences grew & the orthodox Syrians decided to leave the church & build their own place of worship. The need to build another church in the same village was not approved by the Knanaya sect who opposed the move. The two delegations met the Kottayam Raja who had to find a middle path to accommodate both his subjects & this resulted in creating two different villages. St Mary’s church continued to be the church for the Knanaya while the Orthodox sect built their own church calling it the Cheriyapalli. The St Mary’s Knanaya church from that day is known as Valiapalli. The Cheriyapalli over the centuries became more important than the Valiyapally as its people became more affluent & enterprising creating a larger sect.

The construction of Cheriyapalli was entrusted to Portuguese architect Anthony who with the help of the local craftsman designed the structure combining Kerala temple architecture & European styles. Though the name of the church is Cheriyapalli (small church), in reality it became one of the largest in and around Kottayam when it was completed in 1579 AD & was formally called St Mary’s Orthodox Syrian church. One of the striking features of its architecture is the presence of a large temple styled natakashala at the entrance where the portico is held up with 10 granite pillars which have lotus figures carved on them. It is to be noted that the front portico is an exemplary work of temple architecture with wooden carvings on the roof which is today adorned by portraits & paintings of all the revered Metropolitans of the Orthodox church. The whole complex of the church resembles a temple as one can find small lamps in niches all around the outer walls. As one passes the Natakashala, the next section is the central prayer hall of the church which is constructed in traditional European style with high roof, large doors & windows. The central altar is adorned with some of the most beautiful mural art depicting the life of Jesus & Mother Mary. The ceiling tiles of the church are also an example of the richness of European art. It is said that though most of the paintings depict European characters, they were all drawn by local artists upon instructions from the architects using natural dyes & colors.

The Kottayam Cheriyapally became an important centre for the Syrian Christians & till the early 19th century the church was the headquarters of the Malankara church. It is also important to know that the church today is a Maha Edavaka which is a title it was given in 2011 in recognition of its prominence among other Orthodox Syrian churches. The most treasured item at the church is the relic of St Mary which is part of the Holy girdle of the mother & Cheriyapally became the first church in the country to possess such a valuable relic. This relic was installed in the church in 1966 & it is taken out on a procession celebrating the 2 weeks fast of Dormition of Mother Mary . The annual feast at the church is called vithukalude Perunnal or festival of the seeds which is an important event where the blessings of Virgin Mary is asked for before sowing the seeds for a good crop & harvest. The Cheriyapally thus in many ways holds a lot of importance not just to the Syrians who belong to the church but also to people of other ethnicities who pray for their better life here.

The Valiyapally & Cheriyapally are not just the two places of worship in Kottayam, they are a valuable heritage for not just the people whom they symbolise but also for those who believe in the value of faith. A visit to these two beautifully well preserved churches should always be in mind for anyone who crosses the land of Kottayam.